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a feel good travel blog

Vegan in Tallinn, Estonia: Bliss Buffet & Restaurant

4/25/2016

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What’s red, orange and dotted with a side of purple greens? My experience at Bliss, a blissful time of where healthy food meets modern culture. 
 
Tallinn’s Old Town is a true medieval spectacle, like I wrote in a previous post - Tallinn, Estonia: A Walk Down Medieval Memory Lane.  The ancient-looking streets looked exactly the same as it did back in the 15th Century; the only difference is the modern interiors at many of the street-side cafes. Still old, I recommend Tallinn for anyone who wants to experience an authentic Eastern European trip.
 
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I found several vegan and vegetarian restaurants in Tallinn. One of the ways that I exercise while traveling is to do everything by foot. And well, I definitely got my walk in before and after eating at Bliss.
 
Located outside of the main Old Town, I walked a mile down a semi desolate-looking road to what seems like a street that never ends. Along the way, I found a few Estonian cats waving their tales in the windows of the locals.
 
I entered Bliss and my eyes caught onto the chic and vibrant décor that splashed a bit of Bohemian living amidst open-air windowed walls. Speaking English is not common outside of the Old Town, but luckily a girl who knew enough English explained to me how it works at Bliss.
 
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Bliss offers a daily vegetarian and vegan-friendly buffet that has over 100 dishes. Over 50 are gluten-free and about 50 lactose-free dishes. Here, you can find everything imaginable that the plant-craving stomach juices desire, with international favorites such as hearty chana masala, pumpkin soup and guacamole.  
 
Each person receives a bliss card and you can make unlimited trips to the buffet since they weigh the plate by the 100 grams. After meandering through the aisles, my soul yearned to dip my finger in every ounce of homemade dessert and ice cream.
 
I sniffed the rising steam wafting a top of the main courses and let my nose and stomach guide me to the best. As you can see, I tried several sides with my favorite being the squash soup. I love soup. It’s like a deep love affair and somehow its one of the best things that I cook.
 
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Encapsulated by the carrot salad, I couldn’t help but snap a few photos. Meanwhile, that is a mistake. Bliss does not allow photographs of their space. I understood their point of view, but found it to be a bummer since I wanted to write about it. But, I wouldn’t let that stop you. Sadly, because of this I couldn’t show you the miraculous cakes or the decadent lattes overflowing with froth.
 
I ended my meal with sweet potato fries. Yes, it tastes just like home. Normally, I refrain from anything fried, but after walking 16-miles in 3 days, my body craved fat like no other.
 
When in Tallinn, take a walk or a ride, to Bliss where blissology meets foodology for no other study better than the one inside your mouth.


This Lemon Tree article is now featured on GPSmyCity.  To download this article for offline reading or travel directions to the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Vegan in Tallinn, Estonia: Bliss Buffet & Restaurant
 
Mustamäe tee 17, Tallinn 10616
http://www.blissest.com/en/

Do you easy vegan cooking? Check out my vegan food blog at: Mind Body Soul Food www.mindbodysoul-food.com/recipes 
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ONE Reason to Travel Abroad NOW

4/20/2016

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When you scan the Internet for articles about “why one should travel” you see the traditional top seven or ten lists. After living in Germany for 15 months, I am here to give you one reason why you should travel abroad now.
 
My journeys abroad started in 2005 when I studied abroad in Australia. In 2007, I backpacked and studied yoga in India. In 2008, I returned to Australia to work and volunteer abroad. Between 2014-2015 I lived in Hannover, Germany. To say the least, I have seen many parts of the world and have seen some interesting changes throughout the world.

So what’s the one reason why I should travel abroad NOW? Simple. GLOBALIZATION. I’m an American and proud to be one, but when I travel and live abroad, I want to escape America. I want to escape the stress, connection to the virtual world and the fast food/chain restaurant-centric culture.
 
When I returned to Australia in 2008 I saw more “American” things enter the culture. I noticed mainly through fashion where men wore basketball jerseys and either basketball or baseball hats.  
 
During my travels in India, I spoke with many elder locals who were worried about their youth desiring to live a western lifestyle. They were afraid that their culture would be lost and blinded in the world of materialism. In 2010, I looked at my Mumbai friend’s Facebook page and noticed a large outdoor shopping mall. They posted pictures of themselves eating at KFC, California Pizza Kitchen and shopping at Timberland. Naïve, I posted, “Hey where are you on vacation?”
 
They replied, “Mumbai. Still here.” WHAT!? This is Mumbai? The same place where I experienced all these authentic things. Why the hell is a western outdoor shopping center and California Pizza Kitchen in India?
 
Moving on, we now have Europe. I love Europe and all its authenticity from mom-and-pop bakeries to handmade and hand painted artifacts. But, Europe too is hit with globalization. Traveling to the United Kingdom was a culture shock as (in my opinion) cities like London and Edinburgh are very similar to the United States.Corporate coffee shops, cell phone shops on every corner, trendy corporate shops - each and every place is losing its roots. 
 
I went to a food truck festival in Hannover and several of the trucks offered “California-inspired” cuisine. Many of my US friends claimed that they would travel to Europe when they are retired and can “sit on a bus tour” as Europe is "boring and made for old people." But, why? Europe is best explored on foot and in 30 years, everything will look as globalized and American as apple pie.
 
And, its not just American companies that are taking over, but Europe has an influx of EU-globalized companies. It’s now harder than ever for a small business to survive compared to the local chain bakery, bio-store or coffee shop. I’ve written about it before, but everything and everyone will continue to look the same as the same H&M shirt sold in Lithuania is found in Germany.

Politically, the world is changing - FAST. We share resources, internet and outsource jobs, but the more integrated the world gets, it'll become one big melting pot.. The more multi-cultured the world gets, the less interesting places can become because cultures lose connection to its ancient traditions. The world will become global and anyone who's traveled can tell the distinct difference between young and old-rooted cultures. 

It leads to the question, what is multi-culturism if each place loses its own culture? India won't be the same without Holi festival (Could you imagine throwing candy corn instead of tikka powder?) and Paris will loose its charm without locally-owned cafes. These stigmas that we have on every culture are the very essence to what makes each place special or unique.  

One day I am sure I'll ask myself, "Why sit on a plane for 14 hours and spend $2,500 on a plane ticket when you can do, get and experience the same thing in your home country?" It'll be difficult for me to only stay in my home country, because I do not remember or recognize the American culture at times. I feel like everything revolves around work, stress, Starbucks and a fear of guns- is that really our culture?  It's so different compared to when I was a child, and I know people feel the same about their own country. How do I know this? It's because they told me! 
 
So if you want to experience authentic cultures from any nation around the world, travel NOW. Not in five or fifteen years, but now. 

As an American, it probably bothers me more as when I move or travel abroad, I want to be immersed in that country’s culture and not experience the same pizza and coffee that I can get at home. I, and many others, hope that each country can maintain its culture, but in the end no one knows the future.
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Playa del Carmen, Mexico: A Place for Parties and Peaceful Living

4/19/2016

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I first visited the Riviera Maya in 2003. At 18, I saved enough money from working at a garden nursery and spent a week in Cancun. For many years, Cancun was my only memory of the RM. 
 
Just before my 30th birthday, I took an agonizing 12-hour flight from Germany to Cancun. Before meeting my dad, I spent a couple nights in Playa del Carmen, which is a step up from Cancun. 
 

Crowded streets chocked full of Australian and European backpackers that hung out at street side taco stands, sipping on the good life, a Corona. Where am I? Thailand?
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Normally, Mexico is the big and exotic destination for Americans, but I had no idea that young backpackers also flocked to the RM. Young at heart, I felt alive, not worrying about turning the big 3-0 and remembered my backpacking adventures around Asia. Oh the life to be young and free….
 
I instantly fell in love with Playa del Carmen (though my love affair deepened once I got to Tulum) as the air had this sultry sensation between man, earth and guacamole. 
 

Jet lag, I arose close to five in the morning where I made way to the beach. Not surprised, I as well as many other techno-loving partiers enjoyed the sunrise while dancing and still drinking beer. If there is such a thing as heaven and earth, I think I found it. My eyes gazed at one of the most dramatic skies I've ever seen. I peeled my eyes to the sky waiting for some Mayan God to burst from the dark and stormy rain clouds.
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My soul felt at home and my pocketbook yearned for further exploration. 
 

Blistering my feet in flip-flops, I paced up, down and around every street in Playa del Carmen. Broke and unemployed, I needed to control my inner “consumerisitic” warrior from shining. From handmade necklaces that draped over one’s backside to la-la-luxurious $250 swimsuit wraps, I found an entirely new wardrobe and apartment décor collection. Sadly, I had to walk away from any "bad" decisions.
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Hand painted pots called my name and misogynistic cat-callers whistled to every “chica bonita” who walked past. 
 
Playa del Carmen is a place for partygoers and the young at heart. Here, visitors can rent affordable guestrooms or apartments that are neatly decorated with tropical flowers and Mexican-style tile.
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I visited during the annual bpm festival where world-famous DJ’s from around the world play in beach clubs and bars from sunrise to sunrise. It’s a nonstop party palace, which also attracts the euro-trash beefcakes who strut their shit shirtless with beer in their left hand and fist-pump to the beat of the music with the right. 
 
But, let’s not forget about the “Americanas”…
 
To me, Playa is a fusion between the trash of Cancun and the class of Tulum. I took a beach walk one afternoon since I wanted to photograph the beach. Near the ferry dock is the popular Senor Frogs establishment. At about 1pm, drunken beer-belly American men grounded the shit out of women to 1992 “big butts” hip-hop music just like a local trying to mortar some cumin. In fact, they had about a 10-person dry-humping train that choo-choo’d for more shots of tequila.
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Onto more prominent things, if you head to the gated Playacar community you will secretly find some old ruins. Well, I don’t know how good their security is because all you have to do is walk through someone’s backyard from the beach to get into the community. 
 
But, the Mayans must’ve noticed the magnetic energy that surrounds this area. With broken ruins and bursting palm tree-like leaves, a little peaceful sanctuary exists away from Playa’s main drag. 
 
Such roots. Such history. Life is amazing. At one point of human existence, intelligent tribes came here to discover the “x, y and z’s” about life. Now several blocks away, over-intoxicated drunkards pissed on the palm trees near these very ruins.
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What the fuck is going on with the world? I didn’t have the answer and I knew consumerism played a roll into the dramas of life. Until I knew the answer, I cleansed my soul in this powerful ocean and looked forward to heading south. 
 
For some reason, a small part of me felt at home. Playa is the perfect mix of peace and quiet and party-time bars that remind me of my study abroad trip to the Gold Coast, Australia. It's amazing how memories are stirred from a place's sight, sounds and scenery. Although playa can be expensive, at least the guacamole is tasty and affordable. 

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Calling all Readers, Writers & Reviewers: Finding Om at the London Book Fair - April 12 - 14, 2016

4/11/2016

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As a writer, and now author, I’ve always wanted to get involved with book fairs and connect with like-literary minded individuals. I am excited to announce that my book Finding Om will be present at the London Book Fair on April 12-14, 2016. 

Although I cannot make it to the actual event, copies of my book and promotional materials will be available at Author HQ area, 1D50 with the staff from Book Marketing Solutions. If you are a book reviewer, blogger, freelance writer, columnist or travel memoir enthusiast and will be at the LBF, please touch base with me at erkovar@yahoo.com for an exchange or a giveaway. Several copies will also be for sale. 

Today, as the world shifts and becomes more hectic and stressful, we are forced to find our “om” and look within for happiness. Finding Om dives deep into the journey of change, growth and expansion – all of which was found while being on the roads less travelled in Australia, New Zealand, Fiji and India. 

Throughout my life, the world has been my greatest teacher. Seeing how cultures live and how people survive is what made me break my patterns, discover what I want in life and how to appreciate my homeland – something I’ve always struggled with as an over-worked middle-class American.  Like a therapist, traveling has given me the strength and power to overcome life’s obstacles and challenges. And there is no other way to realize this than to jump into a culture so different from the one where I was raised. 

Who would have thought that the first sip from a precious cup of chai would forever change my (and your) life? Discover, learn, grow and blossom with me as you journey through my tales of backpacking and studying yoga in India, solo.
Namaste, 
Elizabeth 


Food For Thought: Why London? I have a deep connection to London. Not only do I love the city, but historic writers like Charles Dickens inspired my writing. It sounds quirky, but after living in Europe, I realized that Dickens and I share a similar perspective on how we view the world and people. Part of this could be because we share the same birthdate, February 7th, so even as a kid I thought it would be "cool" to be a writer like Dickens and other notable February 7th writers like Laura Ingalls Wilder.
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Finding Om and Yoga Behind Bars Partner to Help Change Incarcerated Lives

4/6/2016

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I believe we all have a story. Good, bad, happy and sad – lessons are a part of life and we all must “find” a way to cope with various situations. I am happy to announce that Finding Om and Yoga Behind Bars are now partners to help educate and evolve the lives of the men and women behind bars.  This partnership is the first step into a brighter and healthier future. With your help, I will donate partial proceeds to Yoga Behind Bars with any Finding Om ebook or lulu.com print book sold now through July 4, 2016.  Together, we can change your and those who live behind bars life today.

About Finding Om: An Indian Journey of Rickshaws, Chai, Chapattis and Gurus

Finding Om is a travel memoir about 22-year old college student, Elizabeth, who backpacks and studies yoga in India, solo. Overcoming obstacles, this is a young woman’s journey into finding the life she’s always dreamed about living.
​

Reason Behind Partnership
As a yoga instructor and writer, I understand the importance of giving back and helping those who really need guidance. In this life, I have been fortunate to live in some of the most amazing countries – Australia, Germany and India. Most of what I learned abroad is what I call life knowledge. It’s diving deep into yourself and discovering who you are during moments of joy and sadness. Because of my experiences abroad, I realized that yoga can be a powerful tool to help those who are struggling.
Yoga is life knowledge and a potent tool that dramatically changed my life. I’ve decided to partner with Yoga Behind Bars because I feel strongly about supporting those who are trying to positively change their life’s and are searching for ways to do so.  Supporting a program that guides inmates toward a better and healthier life is something that I personally believe is important.

I believe that we all have a story and these men and women can better accept and change their life when equipped with the right tools. Yoga, meditation and reading allow a person to DREAM again.
The Finding Om Five Principles – DREAM – is my personal philosophy on the process of change by experiencing: destruction, re-creation, enlightenment, acceptance and manifestation. I hope to inspire the world, but in particular these men and women behind bars to DREAM.

Details & Ways You Can Help
There are three ways to help:
1. Buy a Print Book on Lulu.com – $1.00 of every print book sold on lulu.com will be donated.

2. Buy an Ebook Book – 50-cents of every e-book sold will be donated. (available on amazon, B&N, Kobo, Iapple)
3. Use the Amazon Link – Click on the Findng Om amazon link on the Yoga Behind Bars website to purchase either the print or ebook. Yoga Behind Bars will receive a portion of the purchase through their affiliation with Amazon.

Proceeds donated will be used to fund YBB programs, which includes the upcoming teacher training for women behind bars. This generosity link contains a video message behind this program.

**Anyone interested in purchasing an autographed copy can email Elizabeth directly at: erkovar.com **


Time Frame
Any books sold between April 7, 2016– July 4, 2016.


Direct Book Links
LuLu.com
http://www.lulu.com/shop/elizabeth-rae-kovar/finding-om-an-indian-journey-of-rickshaws-chai-chapattis-gurus/paperback/product-22395225.html

Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Finding-Om-Journey-Rickshaws-Chapattis-ebook/dp/B0182S6VVS/ref=tmm_kin_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1448251696&sr=8-1

B&N
http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/finding-om-elizabeth-rae-kovar/1122851643?ean=9781943767267

KOBO
https://store.kobobooks.com/en-us/ebook/finding-om


Back Cover Synopsis
Finding Om is a travel memoir that looks into the mind and soul of 22-year old, Bowling Green State University college student, Elizabeth. In 2005, Elizabeth studied abroad in Australia, which ignited a fresh perspective on life. Australia, and the ocean, became her first love – a sacred place that rebirthed her soul and introduced her to yoga.


Emboldened by the South Pacific, Elizabeth returned to Ohio and fell ill from reverse culture shock. Her collegiate responsibilities, boyfriend issues and negative perspectives about Ohio spiraled out of control. Anxiety, stress, insomnia and panic attacks ruled her life. Stress triggered an unbalanced life, filled with addictions and mental despair, which disconnected Elizabeth from her soul.

Elizabeth desired change and the need to re-identify herself with the world. She needed to find a way to travel abroad. Recipient of BGSU’s inaugural, Stuart R. Givens Fellowship, a grant to fund a student to “do anything in the world,” Elizabeth proposed to backpack and to study yoga in the world’s most hectic country, India, solo.

In the summer 2007, Elizabeth left the US with three thousand dollars, one red backpack and a bagful of questions in search of enlightenment, acceptance and inner peace.

Finding Om is a spiritual, and chaotic, journey through the highs and lows of India. Vivid and suspenseful, these are the tales of palm reader prophecies, the romances with a soul mate, the troubles of tour guide scams, the teachings from yoga gurus and the illuminating conversations had over a cup of chai. This is an intimate and true story of an intrepid young female on a quest to find compassion, adventure and a home in the world.

Elizabeth Rae Kovar Contact Information
www.elizabethkovar.com/books
erkovar@yahoo.com
facebook.com/erkovar
Twitter.com/brainbodykovar @brainbodykovar
Instagram.com/erkovar @erkovar
Pinterest.com/erkovar14


Yoga Behind Bars Information
yogabehindbars.com
facebook.com/YogaBehindBars
https://www.twitter.com/YogaBehindBars





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8 Ways Writing a Travel Memoir Liberated My Soul

4/4/2016

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How many of us live each day and worry about something or negatively put ourselves down? Though not many people will openly admit this, a lot of people suffer in at least in one area of life. I think most of our problems can root back to loneliness, low self-esteem or a lack of love for oneself.  Whatever the issue, I understand because I’ve been there.
 
Life continues to evolve, which means we also constantly change. One year we may think differently than we did two years previous. Change is a part of life. I feel that writing a memoir had a profound effect on my life. When re-hashing life situations it is easy to become nostalgic and then let the imagination wander with all these “coulda woulda and shoulda” scenarios. But for areas of life that I felt ashamed or sorrow, I believe writing a memoir was one of the best things I did for my life and wellbeing.
 
Regardless if the book is successful, I am beyond thrilled at where I am at in my life because of writing this book - Finding Om. This doesn’t mean that I wake up everyday with a smile and see rainbows and unicorns floating over my head, but it means that I’ve worked through some shit (again) and finally let go of some deeper things that I processed but never really forgave myself for my behavior.  
 
Without further ado, here are some ways that writing a memoir liberated my soul.
 
I Found Freedom – Anyone who knows me, understands my soul’s yearning for a freelance lifestyle. Although I still work a part-time fitness management desk and training job, I work for an amazing boss who leaves me be. Part of this could be my life path, but I think part of it is the reality I’ve created for myself. I may not be financially rich, but my life is rich and abundant with experience, which gives me the ultimate freedom my soul has desired.
 
I’ve Become Detached – This goes hand in hand with freedom, but the best thing about writing and reliving my yoga training (all while living off of two suitcases of clothes in Germany) is that I’ve become detached from consumerism. I watch people and listen to women sometimes talk before a yoga class. People flushed with six-figure incomes (money that I can only dream about) are living paycheck to paycheck. Women chit-chatting about needing a certain pair of flats to match their new dress are consumed with their appearance. And those jet-setter, sometimes pompous douche-bags, needs to keep up with the Jones’s.
 
Now, I know certain industries like being a lawyer status plays a huge role in success, but I am SO FREE from worrying about what other people think of or see me as and I do not give two-shits if my flats are several years old or that I haven’t had my haircut since September 2014. I don’t believe in looking like a slob, but my point is that the less I worry about what other people think, or this need to fit in, makes me free from having to fit into any trend. I CREATE my life – and fashion and consumerism doesn’t guide or create me. 
 
I can live on a minimalist life that is filled with experience not dusty shit sitting in a box in the basement.
 
I Forgave Myself – For a long time I’ve always felt bad about how my college relationship ended. During my time of writing this memoir, especially during the end, I had dreams that included my ex. In many of those emotional dreams, I continued to express my forgiveness to him. Between writing and dreaming, I re-realized my mistake, which leads me to the next point, but I became somewhat thankful for that mistake. Why? Because after that experience I never made it again.
 
I’ve Made Mistake, But Other People Have Done Worse – I really believe our early 20’s is a time of self-discovery. I was so ashamed over something’s I’ve done that it took me a while to forgive myself. When writing this memoir, I realized I made mistakes, but other people have made much worse choices throughout their life.
 
While young, I wanted to explore drugs, but some higher part of me didn’t do it since I wanted to find purity and love outside of being intoxicated. So I gave myself credit for the things that I chose NOT to do too. So I slept with someone else while living with my ex-boyfriend. At 22, if that’s the worst thing I’ve done in my life, I really think I’m okay. I would have been embarrassed to publically mention that a year or two ago, but now I am okay with it because I AM HUMAN.
 
I believe writing creates awareness and allows us to triumph above our mistakes.
 
I’ve Accepted Life’s Guidance – The coolest part of writing a memoir many years after the experience happened allowed me to connect the dots. For a while after India, I wondered, “Whatever happened to that man from Mumbai?” What I never TRULY realized until writing is that sometimes the best things happen to you based on life taking its course (and universal guidance). If I never met my husband, I never would’ve had the life experiences between 2008 through today. I may never have moved to Germany and if I stayed in India my life would’ve been drastically different. 
 
This allowed me to accept the life challenges presented after India because without them I would not be where I am today.  
 
Good, bad, happy and sad – it all plays a part in the growth of our souls.
 
I’ve Accepted My Life Choices – I realized that I really do love traveling. It’s a part of me that I hope never dies. Between writing and living in Germany, I’ve come to realize that I am dedicating a HUGE portion of my life to personal pursuits and self-discovery, which includes traveling. The more I travel the more I “find” things about myself and understanding of how the world works.
 
I always remind myself of what my guru says, “You are never alone” which we humans can be physically alone, but spiritually we are not.
 
I’ve Accepted Living an Unconventional Life – Unconventional maybe an understatement. I think it’s my soul’s work on this planet to have many experiences, which differs from the “normal” life. I never had the true urge to birth children and often questioned if I was sent here to guide and teach others.
 
Many years ago (2010 to be exact), I personal trained a lady who was a mother of four kids.
 
One day during our session, she said, “I just don’t get those women who don’t want to have children. There’s something wrong with them?”
 
My ego immediately wanted to react and say, “Well what the fuck do you think is wrong with me? I have a Master’s Degree and a shit ton of life experience, what makes me so “wrong” as a woman?” Now the mindset about life differed in 2010, especially in a small conservative town, but I accepted the differences of my life choices and path.
 
Maybe one day I’ll reach my mid-30’s and make a conscious decision to have a child, but I realized once again while writing that some of us are placed on this planet to be teachers, guiders, creators and mothers. I do believe my mom was sent here to birth kids. I believe for myself that I am sent here for a different reason and there is NOTHING WRONG with not wanting to live a “NORMAL” life, especially when you can benefit society with your gifts.
 
While rehashing my travels through my book, I said the same things at 20 as I do now at 31, but with more wisdom. Life is about choices and we can all choose the life we want to live. I sometimes feel my best while I am on the road.
 
Letting Go – The biggest thing I can express from writing a memoir is the letting go process. I kept a journal while I lived in Australia and re-reading that 11 years later made me elated to see how much I’ve overcome. Writing is a powerful tool - and so is yoga. I relived my yoga training, which reminded of certain lessons that re-conquered any deep-rooted fears that I had. 
 
We humans are complex as emotions keep our minds spinning up, down and around all the time. The biggest lesson is to let go of what no longer serves you. Whether its dropping consumerism or forgiving my heart about my ex-boyfriend, letting go is necessary to ascend to the next step of life.
 
Because of this experience, I feel free and comfortable within my inner and outer world. Never in my life have I ever had such confidence in myself and trust with the universe.  
Have you found writing or another tool to be powerful to liberate your soul? If so, please, I’d love to hear how you found freedom or liberation!
 

Elizabeth Rae Kovar is the author of Finding Om: An Indian Journey of Rickshaws, Chai, Chapattis and Gurus. Finding Om is a travel memoir about backpacking and studying yoga in India, Ebook and print copies are available on Lulu.com, Amazon (Kindle), B&N (Nook Book) and KOBO. 

Any books sold now through July 4, 2016, partial proceeds will be donated to Yoga Behind Bars.


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    Author

    Elizabeth Rae Kovar is a Fitness Trainer, Author of Finding Om, Presenter, Yogi, Vegan & lover of the World. View her portfolio at www.elizabethkovar.comor health-based blog at mindbodysoul-food.com

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