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Discovering Krakow's Jewish Culture & Heritage

4/18/2019

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It is no secret that the Polish Jews suffered during World War II. Today, thousands of visitors come to Krakow to rediscover Krakow's dark past, which also includes Jewish history, culture and heritage. Jews began immigrating to Krakow in the 12th Century, and during the 15th Century they settled primarily in the Kazimierz neighborhood. 

Before World War II, 64,000 Jews lived in Krakow, working in trades such as banking, craftsmanship, and owning restaurants. There were six prominent synagogues in town. During the war, many Jews were displaced, either to concentration camps, the Jewish ghetto of Schindler's Factory. In fact, Schindler saved approximately 1,200 Jews. 

After the war, approximately 10% (three to four thousand Krakow Jews) survived, many of which did not return home to Poland. Today, the Jewish culture revived itself, thanks to the small percentage of Jews who returned to Krakow to reinstate it's heritage. Whether you're searching for history or a good meal, there is plenty of  Jewish history to discover while in Krakow.
 
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Jewish Ghetto
On March 3, 1941, the Nazi occupation created a dwelling place for Krakow Jews. Podgorze is the conception of the Jewish ghetto located on the right side of the Wisla River. The ghetto consisted of 15 streets and some 320 buildings and 3,200 rooms, completely walled off from the rest of the city. The ghetto's western edge, at Limanowskiego Street near Rynek Podgorski square was the main entrance gate to the ghetto along with another gate on Limanowskiego Street, which was solely for the entrance of German military trucks.

Here is where many Jews met their horrific fate of executions, beatings, deportations to camps and being torn apart from their family. Today, in Ghetto Heros Square 33 monumental chairs and 37 regular chairs exist in rows to symbolize the tragic deaths and empty seats that the residents of the ghetto left behind. 
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Kazimierz - Jewish Square
Located south of Old Town and between the Wisla River and Ul, the Jewish Quarter is a neighborhood not only for Jewish culture, but for Bohemian artists as well. Near the Jewish Square green space are countless Jewish Restaurants surrounded by five synagogues. 

The historical pavilion, Plac Nowy, is a popular antique market that contains a farmers market on the weekend. There are also countless antique shops in this district that are worth exploring.

I recommend visiting the tiny black and white shops, Galeria Lue Lue to discover old black and white images of historic Krakow and Poland. Speaking of black and white, the Kazimierz District is where Steven Spielberg filmed the movie, Schindler's List. 

To discover more about Jewish culture visit the 
Center for Jewish Culture on Meiselsa Street. 
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There are countless opportunities to discover Jewish culture and cuisine around Jewish Square.

​One of the most photogenic store fronts are on Szeroka Street in between Miodowa and where Szeroka Street bends.  

Admire the historic window fronts, hear live music or simply explore your pallate with Kosher and Traditional Polish Food. I recommend Jewish Restaurant, Arial, and Kuchnia Domowa on Miodowa Street. 

Discover more on 7 Authentic Polish Restaurants in Krakow, Poland (for Pierogies & Vegetarians too). ​​

Kazimierz is the perfect neighborhood to explore sacral architecture and the Jewish Synagogues. I overhead a tour guide once state that the 
synagogues located across from each other, those people who worshipped at different places of Jewish faith (traditional vs. more progressive), would not cross the road at the conflicting-beliefs  synagogues location. 

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Synagogue is ‘synagoga’ or ‘boznica’ in Polish. 

There are seven main synagogues in the neighborhood with the Old Synagogue being the oldest in Poland. Built in the early 16th Century, next to the 14th Century city walls, this synagogue now houses a branch of the Historical Museum of Krakow, which displays exhibitions dedication to Jewish culture and history. Destroyed by a fire in 1557, the exterior received a Renaissance reconstruction while the interior remained Gothic. During World War II, the Nazis not only damaged the building, but turned it into a warehouse. The Nazis also executed 30 Polish hostages at its wall in 1943. 

Szeroka Street contains the main three synagogues, the Old Synagogue, Remuh (1557 Renaissance style) and Wolf Popper's Synagogue (1620 Baroque style).  As the highlights of the Jewish community, every synagogue has its own architectural style and "brand" of the Jewish faith. Remuh is located adjacent to the historic Jewish Cemetery ​that's existed since 1511. 


The 1590 High Synagogue located on On Józefa Street, is the city's tallest synagogue. The Neo Romanesque, Tempel Synagogue at 24 Miodowa Street, was built in 1862 for the Society of the Progressive Israelites, and the interior's woodwork contains "Moorish" design. Isaac's Synagogue was completely destroyed during World War II. Kupa Synagogue is a modest synagogue founded for the poor in 1643. 
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Schindler’s Factory
The once World War II factory is now a historical museum. The factory housed the former Nazi industrialist who saved the lives of his Jewish workforce during the Holocaust. Guests will see Schindler’s desk intact to what it would look like during the war alongside with walls filled with plates, Nazi propaganda and photos of the factory workers.

​Nearby is the popular family-owned restaurant, 
Jadlodajnia Wczoraj I Dzis (bottom food image below). 
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Ariel Jewish Restaurant
One of the most unique culinary experiences in Krakow is to explore the Jewish and Kosher culture. Discover countless Jewish restaurants along Szeroka Street.  

Located in Jewish Square, Ariel, sits between five synagogues in the heart of Kazimierz. Known for its live music events, Ariel features six indoor dining halls and outdoor seating in the summer. The green room, known as the fireplace room, features an eclectic mix of historic paintings and vintage items to replicate a Jewish tenement house from the 16th Century. In fact, "Arial" originates from the Old Testament and is named after one of the four archangels, "Uriel," known as the "Light of God."

And God bless this delicious food. Borscht, cabbage salads and Russian-style pierogies, you'll notice my trend as the blog post continues. A gift shop is also available. Prices are moderate to pricey. Check the website for the music concert calendar and apartment rentals.

Galicia Jewish Museum
This photography exhibition contains over 140 images of Jewish culture and life over the last 100 years. The museum is divided into five sections. Four parts display the absence of Jewish people, which is why the images do not contain any people. The final part displays pictures of people who saved and revived Jewish culture and heritage. The photographs are in color. 

What is your favorite spot in the Jewish Quarter in Krakow?

This Lemon Tree article is now featured on GPSmyCity.  To download this article for offline reading or travel directions to the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Discovering Krakow's Jewish Culture and Heritage.

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Top Historical Sites in the City of Palma de Mallorca

4/14/2019

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The city of Palma is the only major city in the Baeleric Islands. As the capital city, Palma features a variety of historical places, landmarks and cathedrals to explore it's Roman, Moorish and Christian roots. The name Palma dates back to it's Roman settlements, though humans have settled on this land since the Bronze Age. Throughout the centuries, Palma switched hands between Arabic and Catholic rulership, but today, is a tourist city dotted with modern cafes, hotels and shops residing within ancient architecture. When visiting Palma, discover it's ancient history at one of these many places, museums and landmarks. 
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La Seu - Mallorca Cathedral
The foundational stones were placed in 1229, which transformed from mosque to cathedral. 
This Levantine Gothic jewel that overlooks the sea, this magnificent structure’s construction began in 1230, replacing a former mosque. The interior is as splendid and spectacular as the exterior. Inside, explore a variety of historic paintings, each with a story of its own. Enjoy the sunlight that moves through the stained-glass windows, which was once a method used of telling time. In 1904, Gaudi refurbished the chapel, to what I consider to look like creepy, demonic artwork, but hey it’s different. Inside guests also discover the tombs of Mallorca’s past Kings, James II and James III.  Entry fee: 4 euros
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Banys Arabs (Arabic Baths)
This is one of the most magical places to explore in Palma. Cute, quiet and serene, discover a lush garden of lemon trees and Balearic flowers planted amidst the four walls of this ancient bathhouse. Located in the medieval quarter of the city, Banys Arabs is the only remaining Moorish building in the Palma. Built in the 10th Century, all that survives are two underground chambers, one of which contains capitals recycled from demolished Roman buildings.
Bellver Castle
This Gothic-stlye caste is set on a hill three kilometers west of city center. The castle's foundation is circular, which is one of the few circular designs in Europe. A rarity in design, Bellver was built in the 14th Century for King James II. The castle survived two sieges, during the years of 1343 (Peter IV of Aragon's campaign to reincorporate Majorcan terrifies to the Aragon reign) and 1391 (anti-semitic peasant revolt). Today, the castle is home to the city's history museum. 
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Museo de Mallorca
Discover the historical and ancient roots of this island nation at the Mallorca Museum. Located in a 16th-century mansion popularly known as "Casa de la Gran Cristiana,” explore a variety of Gothic panels, Moorish ceramics, weapons, paintings and furniture.​

Visit an Ancient Olive Tree in Placa de Cort
Located in Old Town, nearby Town Hall, is an attractive square that features an extremely large and oversized olive tree. The trunk wraps in various directions, similar to a labyrinth. Some sources claim the tree is 600 years old, where others state 800 – either way the tree is a finca, Pedruixella Petit, from the Pollensa area of the Sierra Tramuntana. It lived there for five or six hundred years before transplanted to Mallorca. ​
Palau de l'Almudaina
​Discover what used to the be home of 13th Century Mallorcan rulers. This royal palace is adjacent to the Palma Cathedral and was built after the conquest of the Arabs. Jaume II converted this into Gothic style, but elements of Moorish "touch" still remains. Inside, discover bygone era charms of what rooms used to look like, which are decorated with historical tapestries, rugs, furniture and paintings. Outside visitors lounge in the 
S'Hort del Rei gardens and enjoy rows of water fountains set amidst the manicured lawn.  

Can Joan de S'Aigo Cafe
Dating back to the 18th Century, this 200 year old café is the oldest ice cream parlour Palma. If ice cream is not your thing, be sure to taste test an ensaimada or for the savory at heart, try a Mallorcan flatbread known as Coca de trampó.

Far de Portopí Lighthouse
Believe it or not, this is the world's third oldest operating lighthouse. This revitalized port features a variety of restaurants, a yacht club and shopping mall. The lighthouse is the main historic attraction, and everything else is modern. There are records of shipping to Port de Palma before Muslim conquest (902-1229) to Portopi and La Cala. 

Port de Palma
Port de Palma is the largest of the five Balearic ports, and situated on the seaside connecting to the streets of Palma's Old Town. The port is separated into four sections: the commercial docks, the Poniente Quays, the marina docks and the West Breakwater and welcomes cargo and recreational ships. 
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What's your favorite historical place to visit in Mallorca? 

Let's Connect! 

This Lemon Tree article is now featured on GPSmyCity
.  To download this article for offline reading or travel directions to the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Top Historical Sites in the City of Palma de Mallorca.
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8 Things You Must Do When Visiting Hannover

4/9/2019

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Hannover is not Germany's most popular tourist destination, but it is getting it's name on the map. With so many affordable things to do and see, it is impossible to discover Hannover in one to two days. If you're  looking for a mix of history and natural outings, these are some of the best things to do and see while visiting Hannover. 
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Explore the Rathaus
The Rathaus, or the “city hall” is the most charming architectural structure in Hannover. Take time to walk the grounds and soak up the serene atmosphere.  The building’s reflection from across the pond is the perfect spot for a photograph. 

Inside the Rathaus, visitors explore the history and visuals of what life was like when Hannover originated. You’ll also find structures that depict the destruction of Hannover after World War Two. In the lobby there is a tourist office to buy tickets for the roof. The elevator ride is worth the few euros alone.  Before getting in the elevator, be sure to read the signs depicting more historical facts about Hannover. At the top, there are several viewpoints that feature 360-degree views of the city.
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Walk The Red Thread
Hannover’s Red Thread is a self-guided walking tour that journeys through the heart of Hannover. This 4,200-meter red painted line contains 36 significant stops featuring the best of Hannover’s past and history.
 
This do-it-yourself walking tour is simple. Just follow the red line. If you want more out of the tour, purchase the Red Thread handbook for three euros from the Tourism Office located across from the Hauptbanhof. I recommend the book as it explains a wealth of knowledge about the monuments and architecture and other cool secrets. Books are available in English and German.

 I recommend taking your time and exploring one of the cafes along the Red Thread. Check out my Noteworthy “Essen und Trinken” Cafes along Germany’s Red Thread.

The Red Thread also tours through Altstadt, which is the best place to visit to see the old architecture of Hannover, which was technically rebuilt after the wall. Important landmarks are the Marktkirche, the Leibnizhaus and water tower near the river. The Teestubchen is the perfect place to sit in Ballhofplatz and enjoy a cup of tea. 
There are so many places to eat and drink that you can find a place that suits you on my 20 Buzz-worthy cafes in Hannover. Old Town is a perfect spot to try a slice of German cake. With so many choices, check out more on my Hannover Cake Connoisseur Blog and discover what place (or cake) is best for you!
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Georgengarten & the Herrenhauser Garten
The gardens and trails in this park system is a quintessential Hannoverian thing to do. Locals barbecue on the grounds, walk the trails and enjoy the architecture and special events inside in the Herrenhauser Garten. Autumn is one of the most photogenic seasons on trail. 


Walk Maschsee 
One of the most popular areas in Hannover is Maschsee (Masch Lake). This 6-kilometer walk around the lake is the perfect afternoon stroll. You’ll find locals rollerblading, walking or biking around the quiet lake. There are plenty of cafes and beer gardens dotted around the lake so don’t worry about going hungry. My favorite is Pier 51 bar and lounge and the biergarden at the Aspira and the outdoor café connected to the Marriot Hotel. If you are in Hannover for Vater’s Tag (Father’s Day) in May, head to Maschsee to discover how “herrens” celebrate Father’s day by pulling wagons and playing drinking games around the lake.

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Holländische Kakao-Stube – Mitte
Whether you’re looking for a slice of heaven or the best cake in Hannover, you’ll find it at the Kakao-Stube. Located nearby the Opera House (near stop 3) and the Kröpcke clock, veer off onto Ständehausstrasse and look out for the Blue and White sign with a little Dutch girl on it.

Once you walk in you’ll feel as if you walked back into time with flashbacks of the Netherlands in 1921 where blue and white tiles cover the wall and staircases are covered with “gold” handrails. Here is where the real journey begins. Admire the cakes, torts and tarts behind the glass and “scratch and sniff” the homemade goods located next to the cash register. For Hannover, this café is a bit pricier, but by American standards to get a coffee and a slice of cake between five to seven Euros is a hell of a deal.
 
In this café, you’ll order your cake at the counter and then bring your ticket to a table. Don’t worry if the ladies don’t smile at you. It’s Northern Germany and smiling is optional. This is the place where born and raised Hanoverians hang out so . But, it’s by far the BEST cake and most historical café in Hannover. Check out their website for pictures of the café before and after World War II.
 
What should I get? EVERYTHING, but if you must choose one – Frankfurter Kranz (see below).​
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Markethalle
​Whether you’re seeking some fresh fruit or a meal, you can find everything café-related here. Sadly, the markhalle doesn’t look anything like the original since post-war architecture chose the most bleak and boring designs (sorry to my architecture friends who may find this offensive).  If you want a serious plate of pasta, stop at one of the bei Cüneyt stands. You get a massive plate of vegetarian or meat-based pasta or rice dish for only four euros! For the BEST brochens and chocolate croissant I’ve ever had, visit the Das Statement stall. 

If you desire another "kaffee pause" a  block from Markethalle is Machwitz  Kaffee, a local coffee company in operation since 1883.  


Cultural Centers in Linden
The Linden neighborhood is the “Berlin” of Hannover. Quirky and ultra-liberal, Café Glocksee and Faust and Mephisto are two cultural centers to photograph graffiti or catch a cheap musical performance. At Faust, you can enjoy a latte at Nachbar or purchase some cheap antiques and goods at the Sunday flea market (warm months only).

This Lemon Tree article is now featured on GPSmyCity.  To download this article for offline reading or travel directions to the attractions highlighted in this article, go to 8 Things You Must Do When Visiting Hannover.

What's your Must-Do while in Hannover? Check out our other Hannover blogs:

Best World War II Sites in Hannover, Germany7 Noteworthy “Essen und Trinken” Cafes along Hannover, Germany’s Red Thread 6 Amazing Places for Summer Swimming in Hannover​10 Cheap & Free Things to do in Hannover, Germany
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In Search of Communism in Berlin – Best Historical Sites

4/5/2019

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Berlin, Germany’s Capital city, has gone through several changes throughout the last one-hundred years. From World War II to Communism to today’s hipster-chic culture, Berlin is one of the most visited in Germany. No matter where you go in the city, marks and architecture still reflect Germany’s past and its division between East and West Germany. Whether you’re searching for museums or interesting architecture, here are some interesting communistic spots in Berlin.
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The Berlin Wall
The GDR constructed the barbed wire and concrete “Antifascistischer Schutzwall,” or “antifascist bulwark," on August 13, 1961 to keep the Western Germany "fascists," out of the East. Various checkpoints at the wall allowed visitors to come in and out of East and West Germany, and those who tried to escape or climb over the wall were often shot and killed. The wall came down on November 9, 1989 when the GDR announced that anyone could come and go as they please. The citizens were ecstatic and held big parties, specifically near the Brandenburg Gate. Throughout Berlin travelers will notice plaques on top of a red brick line depicting where the wall once stood, and pieces of the wall that still stand today. 

For significant pieces of the wall, check out the Berlin Wall Memorial on 
Bernauer Strasse, the wall near the Topography of Terror on Niederkirchnerstrasse/Wilhelmstrasse, or the East Side Gallery near Ostbahnhof. 
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Berliner Fernsehturm
This television tower is Berlin’s iconic GDR symbol. Constructed between 1965-1969 by the GDR, the intentions of the tower was a symbol of communistic power, which broadcasted five FM programs. Located in Berlin-mitte, near Alexandarplatz, this 368-meter tower now contains a revolving restaurant, which has a visibility of up to 26 miles.

Alexanderplatz
Pre World War II, Alexanderplatz was the hotspot for Berliners. Post war, the commies built the square with sterile and unassuming architecture, which became the center of military parades and party events. In 1953, several anti-government demonstrators were shot dead during the anti-communist uprising. Here, travelers also find statues of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels.  
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Stalinallee / Karl-Marx-Allee
This area was destroyed during World War II and post war rebuilt by the GDR as an extensive socialist boulevard between 1952-1964. Between 1949-1961, the boulevard was named Stalineallee, but later renamed after Karl Marx in the fifties during the split of East and West Germany. The Allied zone occupied by the West and the Soviet Zone occupied by the East, has distinct differences still seen today. 
At the intersection of Karl-Marx-Allee and Frankfurter Allee, is Frankfurter Tor, or Frankfurt Gate, a large square that contains the prominent Socialist towers. 

Verkehrsberuhigte Ostzone 
This underground communist bar is a dive bar decorated in communist memorabilia. It's a good pit stop for a cheap beer and to reminisce over the "good old days" and countless propaganda posters. 

DDR Museum
Located directly on the River Spree, is the former government district of East Germany. The museum features exhibitions with three distinct areas such as the public life, state and ideology and life in a block tower. Highlights include interrogation room, prison cell, cinema and surveillance room. 

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Checkpoint Charlie
This US Army station is the last checkpoint before headed into East Berlin. Today, a replica exists where guards stand at the station offering photographs and "visa stamps." The great news of today, is that McDonald's is just behind. How American! 

​For Kaffee und Kommunism try Cafe Sibylle, an over 50-year old neighborhood coffeeshop that proudly served East Germany cake and coffee during communism. It is important to check if the cafe is still in operation. In 2018, they lost the lease due to renovations and were deciding to relocate. 
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Mauer Museum Haus Am Checkpoint Charlie
​The museum located next to Checkpoint Charlie is a place to discover more about DDR and how German citizens fled East Germany. Checkpoint Charlie was one of the most significant border crossing spots. One of the most significant escapes was a family who engineered a hot air balloon, which was the prize possession for two families escape out of East Germany. 

Marzahn-Hellersdorf
Marzahn has transformed from communist to hipster. This traditional communistic, uniform high-rise block housing is not aesthetically pleasing, unless you adore architecture that looks similar to prison chambers. But, this neighborhood is a significant representation of Berlin's past. Once bleak and dreary, the row housing received a facelift, which is now painted with bright colors. The 18-story "Flower Tower" is one of Berlin's most popular facade design. In Marzahn there are plenty of viewpoints to overlook the intimidating neighborhood as well as the city of Berlin. Try the 70-meter "Skywalk" located on the 21st floor of the block at Raoul-Wallenberg-Straße 40/42. Or, walk on the "cloud" known as the "Wolkenhain" is an observation tower overlooking the Gardens of the World. The park also features a cable car that ascends to the 102-meters summit of the Kienberg to the Wolkenhain. See what it was like to live in 1986 east Germany at the Museumswohnung WBS 70. 
It's a former GDR apartment, now turned into a museum furnished with traditional artifacts and furnishings from that era. 
Neue Wache
This “New Guardhouse” is the Central Memorial of the Federal Republic of Germany for the Victims of War and Dictatorship. This monument represents three phases of German history: The War of Liberation, victims of WW1 and the victims of fascism from GDR & WW2. Inside is the Käthe Kollwitz's Pietà statue of her holding her dead son. The underground room contains the remains of an unidentified soldier and resistance soldier and the soil from the battlefields and concentration camp.
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Red + Green Man on Stop Lights
One way to know you are in East Germany is by the cross walk signals. East Germans replaced traditional cross walk signals from the West to use Ampelmännchen, the little red and green mans. Those signals were almost replaced, but East Germans demanded to keep these signals, which are still seen today. 

What's your favorite communism landmark or spot in Berlin?

Check out our other Blogs on Berlin: 

A Walking Tour of Unter den Linden: Berlin's Most Prominent & Historical Street​
10 Significant WW2 Sites to Visit in Berlin, Germany

This Lemon Tree article is now featured on GPSmyCity.  To download this article for offline reading or travel directions to the attractions highlighted in this article, go to In Search of Communism in Berlin.
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    Elizabeth Rae Kovar is a Fitness Trainer, Author of Finding Om, Presenter, Yogi, Vegan & lover of the World. View her portfolio at www.elizabethkovar.comor health-based blog at mindbodysoul-food.com

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