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a feel good travel blog

The Passenger Hostel - Porto, Portugal - Become The Driver in Your Life

11/29/2018

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Sometimes in life you’re a driver. And other times you’re a passenger. Although a guest in the Passenger Hostel, that night I became the driver to the path of reawakening on the start to my Camino de Santiago journey. 
 
And with plenty of space for solitude and reflection, I became the passenger in God’s mission while I drove myself to sleep meanwhile trains pulling in and out of the station. 
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Located inside The Sao Bento Train Station, this three-story hostel features private and shared room options as well as plenty of common space for the common folk who travels on a budget. 
 
Upon walking through the sliding glass entry doors, a tiny bar awaits tired travelers with some fruit-infused water and countless options for beer and the beloved liquor beverages. The tiny front desk sits in a bohemian-style lobby equipped with a mac and a loft lookout space. 
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Whether you want to play piano or gaze into the abyss of the train station, there is plenty of space to lounge, play and seek solitude. The main lobby features enough gizmos, gadgets and good books to keep one occupied for hours. ​
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This hostel features the most brilliant key card system. Guests wear a water-proof, magnetic bracelet that allows entry into the hostel and the guests’ specific floor. 

Solo and private-room guests stay on the first level (second floor for Americans). The first floor features a private kitchen and living room that dormitory folks don’t have to.  
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The private rooms are similar, but different in nature, design and style. The loft-style private rooms invite guests to relax on a modern couch or “bean bag” while analyzing Portuguese life outside of the historic window. Above the lounge space is where the precious chariot – the bed – awaits. 

Lying in bed, this is the exact Bohemian-chic life I’ve always imagined….except for the moment of having to use the bathroom in the middle of the night. Confused with jet lag, its important to not forget to walk down a steep ladder in a quest to use the shared bathrooms.

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The bathrooms and showers are in separate rooms, and feature a window overlooking the train station. Be sure to keep your towel nearby so the rest of Portugal doesn’t see you in the buff. 
 
The second level is only accessible for those sleeping in the dormitories. 
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Guests staying on the first floor have access to a living room suite, equipped with leather couches, a writing desk and scenic views of life in the city. Be sure to look up and marvel at the ceiling's intricate design, a style that dates the building's age. 
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The third level is the most special. A mix of modern furniture and historic facades, the third level is where all the magic happens. In the morning, guests enjoy a free, complimentary breakfast…one that is far better than most places that serve only white toast and corn flakes. ​
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Open day and night, this is an out-of-the-box way to enjoy the attic of a train station. I sat on a swinging bed, gazing at a painting of nature. The streams of paint were symbolic to my bleeding heart. I shed a few tears in search of enlightenment regarding my soon-to-be Camino experience. 
 
As they say, the cream rises to the top and the cream of the crop of the attic is the wooden-floor room. A place of peace and quiet, it is just you, a ladder, a modern statue and the Sao Bento clock. Lost in time and thought, this is a space for meditation of stillness or movement – whatever you prefer. A place to be free and above the rest of the chaos happening below. At night, although silent inside, the surrounding noise from the area ignites the atmosphere with noise. It’s not horrible but not pin-drop silent. 

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Cook dinner. Chillout over a glass of tea. Swing on a bed. Have a beer. The attic is your "Garden of Exploration." If you’re looking for other fun, check out the activities board on the main floor for walking tours, bar crawls and more. 

Consult the front desk staff for permission, if any, regarding climbing the ladder to the back of the clock. 

Room rates vary year-round. I paid approximately $65 USD for a private room using hotels.com and with being a member, I received a “secret-price” rate.
 

​Discover more about my Camino de Santiago Portuguese Way journey on my Youtube Channel. 
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Hotel A Torre do Xudeu – Tui, Spain - A Night to Remember

11/27/2018

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The moment I crossed into Spain on the Camino, my eyes teared with emotions. I had no choice but to walk forward, away from Portugal, a country I love dearly with my heart. 

Despite my sadness, the beauty of Tui, Spain ignited feelings of refinement that live deep within my soul. The city is as beautiful as God’s heart. And Hotel A Torre do Xudeu is no different.
 
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This elegant and historic hotel is a 1746 mansion, situated directly on the Camino and a five-minute walk to the main Cathedral. The front desk staff promptly checked me in and toured me around the hotel, giving insight to the mansion’s history and aristocratic background. 

The staff told me this was always a Christian home, but some online sources note about a “Jewish Tower.” Even during the time when the Christians and the Moors fought, this area remained under Christian rule.
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The second level features an elegant dining room and living room, which guests use at their leisure. The brief tour led to a balcony that overlooked the River Miño, Tui and the distant landscape. Luxury doesn’t stop on the balcony. Guests enjoy a private lookout point or the hotel’s secluded garden. 
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Meandering up the winding stair case, additional basic private rooms are available. My room and the comfortable bed, graciously awaited my presence. I opened the ancient window to let in a breeze while Maria pointed out the window. My window looked directly at the Cathedral town and Valenca, Portugal. 
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How sweet and endearing. Portugal, now a memory is still in sight. I sat in the gorgeous bay window to observe the skyline and the pilgrims walking on the Camino below my window. 
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As above, so below. The writing desk ignited sweet words of wisdom that flowed my head, through my heart and into my hand. Sometimes I feel like I’m born in the wrong era. Not only did I hear church bells from my window, I heard the cathedral bells “sing” at the strike of the hour in the morning – a nice and pleasant way to start the morning. The most difficult part of the morning was in regards to getting out of bed. Comfy and cozy, I was so warm I did not want to get out of bed.
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While sitting at the head of the dining room table, I felt alive and at home with my soul and surrounding atmosphere. 

The hotel has character and class, which is something ancient architecture teaches us daily. It’s a mix of textures, elements and shapes within the architectural design. The breakfast area fuses this style of desire. 
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And speaking of breakfast…this was the best breakfast I had on the Camino. In my opinion, a five-star breakfast there were zero complaints about options. I don’t eat meat, but the breakfast bar features a variety of meats, wheel cheeses, rolls, pastries, cakes, cereals, fresh melon and fruit, juice, coffee and tea. The most exquisite moment of breakfast was sipping on strong Spanish coffee, “café con leche,” while gliding my fork into a slice of flan. My god this was the best morning fuel for any tired and famished pilgrim. 
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The lobby features several glass cases containing jewelry made by local artists. With a passion to preserve Galician culture, these artists present jewelry designs that integrate the Celtic roots and petroglyphs, which is what makes Galicia so different from the rest of Spain. 
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I found it difficult to leave this hotel. Beauty is inspirational and this hotel is not only beautiful, but inspired the creative artist within me. I hope one day to revisit Tui, and will certainly book my stay again at Hotel A Torre do Xudeu. 

Onsite parking is free of charge.  I made my reservation via booking.com. Prices vary but when booked in advance, prices are as low as 45 euros per night.

Discover more about my Camino de Santiago Portuguese Journey on my YouTube Channel. 

​Let's Connect! 

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My Camino De Santiago Portuguese Way Accommodations

11/15/2018

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There is no one way to explore the Camino de Santiago. Where to sleep on the Camino is a conversation starter, particularly with those who believe in only sleeping in the municipal albergues for an authentic experience. Though I agree, I do not do well sleeping in the presence of others. For me, sleep was part of my healing process and I desired to experience historic and family homes, even if it cost more money. 

Where you sleep is your decision. As an American, rooms are much more affordable here than they are in the states. Now, if sleeping in mixed dormitory, you can spend around 100 euros in total for a 10-16 journey. Though not my cup of tea, I enjoyed every moment at the accommodations I stayed in below and hope that your experience is the same. 

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The Passenger Hostel - Porto, Portugal 
Located directly inside Sao Bento train station, this hostel contains dormitory and private rooms as well as countless lounge spaces. The attic, where a free breakfast is served, features several hangout spots to lie on swinging beds or take a peak behind the train station's main clock. The private rooms are lofts and those guests have access to a separate kitchen and private lounge space. Although the street is noisy at night, the hostel is a 3 minute walk to the cathedral and camino connections. 
Price: approx. $65USD incl. continental breakfast
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Quinta Sao Miguel de Arcos - Arcos, Portugal
From Porto to Arcos, this Quinta was once home to a rich man and now turned into a hotel. With two pools and an excellent pilgrim menu, I suggest staying in Arcos coming from Porto. The private room features a writing desk and a cute window seat accompanied by a courtyard or landscape view. The atmosphere at night was in pure silence minus the town's rooster cawing at 3:55am.  This was one of my favorite stops on the camino. I cried when I left. 
Price: 56 Euros for a basic room, breakfast included + free laundry
Pilgrim Menu (can be made vegan/vegetarian!) - 17 euros

Hotel de Terco - Barcelos, Portugal 
Hotel de Terco is a standard hotel located in the heart of Barcelos. Clean and quiet, there were no complaints. A map or a GPS is needed to find the hotel. I stayed here because the hotel was nearby the train station where I left the next morning on a rest day to Braga. 
Price: 39 euros, + breakfast 5 euros

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Collector's Hostel - Braga, Portugal 
Located in the heart of Braga, and a 10-15 walk to the train station, Collector's Hostel had a historic charm that melted my heart. The three-story hostel contains private and dormitory accommodations. Each room features a unique theme, where I stayed in room number 3, The Robinson Crusoe. Old keys. Old books. What's not to love? One of my favorite areas included the tiled patio overlooking the street and the main cathedral. Private rooms share a bathroom. 
Price: 27 euros - included breakfast
Train ticket cost between 3-3,30 euros each way from Barcelos
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Casas da Quinta da Cancela - Balugaes, Portugal
After taking the train from Braga back to Barcelos, I had a short walking day to Balugaes. Similar to Arcos, this Quinta features one-of-a-kind accommodations in the middle of a beautiful vineyard. The historic old homes are now private rooms. The kitchen is open day and night and guests are welcome to enjoy free coffee, tea and afternoon cake. The grounds are similar to walking through a fairy-tale landscape. Guests sit under lemon, persimmon or apple trees, or enjoy moments like a child on an old wooden swing overlooking the vineyard. These Quinta's are special places of their own. 
Price: $48.39, breakfast included
Pilgrim's Meal: 15 euros
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Casa das Neves - Ponte de Lima, Portugal
Pointe de Lima is one of Portugal's most charming cities. The Casa das Neves has an excellent reputation with pilgrims and for good reason. The owner is a very kind and helpful person. The entire home is spotless and the kitchen and laundry room services pilgrims on a budget. The rooms are not anything to brag about, but the bed is comfortable and the pillows feel clouds - what else could any pilgrim want? 
Price: 36 euros includes free laundry

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Quinta das Aguas - Oak Room - Rubiaes / Parades de Couro, Portugal
I did a bit of a different stay upon entering Rubiaes and chose to spend two nights at a vegetarian / vegan farm. Ironically, I was the only guest during this stay, which was an interesting experience in itself. Hands down, this was my favorite place on the entire trip and I think it is because of the connection to the animals and the king-sized bed. Guests have access to meander the farm, admiring countless animals, gardens and sacred spaces. Guests can order a vegetarian meal, when available between 10-12 euros. Breakfast is included. The bookings are only available on Airbnb so the cost is higher due to the service + cleaning fees. 
Total Price to Two Nights: $126
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Hotel A Torre do Xudeu - Tui, Spain
Situated directly on the Camino, Hotel a Torre is a must-stay in Tui. This historic hotel has survived wars and has always been a Christian home even during Moorish battle. The once home now hotel contains several floors contained with accessible space such as a living room, dining room, patio, balcony and kitchen. Along The Way, this was the best breakfast buffet I had on the entire trip. Rare delights such as a flan were available along with a range of pastries, proteins and breads. 
Price: 40 euros, breakfast included 

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Pension Louro - O Porrino, Spain
Located on the camino (and next to a laundromat and grocery store) is hostal Louro. I made reservations that morning on the camino via a WhatsApp message. They had one private room with a private bath left for 22 euros. Safe, quiet and comfortable, I recommend this hostal for pilgrims. The pension also contains a bar that serves alcohol and coffee, and croissants in the morning. 
Price: 22 euros

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A Casa da Herba - Redondela, Spain
If you are looking for a lively hostel to meet fellow pilgrims, look no further than A Casa da Herba. I shared this private room with a balcony with a Canadian woman for forty euros (20 euros/person). The private rooms share a bathroom. Dormitory beds are more affordable and the hostel contains a kitchen and small lounge where pilgrims congegrate to write, eat, chat and cook. Free coffee and tea are provided. 
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Hotel Sena - Caldas de Reis, Spain
Hotel Sent is an affordable hotel for pilgrims and tourists. It's a bit off the camino and is 0.9 miles to the heart of town, but is one of the most affordable hotels in Caldas. This hotel would be better enjoyed during the summer months when guests enjoy the pool and grounds. Otherwise, it's a basic accommodation with a private bathroom nearby a massage center and grocery store. 
Price: $27, breakfast is included 

Hotel Ruas - Pontevedra, Spain
Located near the center of Old Town and the Cathedral, this hotel and restaurant is an affordable and comfortable stay while on the Camino. My room contained two beds, perfect for pilgrims who want to split the cost. The hotels' restaurant serves traditional food and if you order coffee in the morning, it comes with complimentary churros. 
Price: 38 euros

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Pension Jardin - Padron, Spain
If you love antiques, history and personal touches, stay at Pension Jardin. These historic homes have been my favorite on this trip and there is plenty of lobby space for guests to lounge, write and relax outside of their bedroom. The hotel is owned by a family, and these buildings were once farm stalls in the past. Rose bushes outline the exterior of the hotel, igniting the lush garden atmosphere. The hotel resides across from the botanical garden and is nearby a laundromat and grocery store. 
Price: 35 euros (some rooms are 45 euros
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Hotel Bonaval - Santiago de Compostela, Spain
Located 0.3 miles from the Cathedral, Hotel Bonaval is an affordable hotel stay that features a 24-hour breakfast bar. Some rooms have exposed stone walls and a built-in fireplace. I stayed on the top floor, with two beds in my room. The bottom floor also contains a small garden that overlooks the cathedral and some of Santiago's skyline. Similar style hotels located next to the cathedral are double in price and so this little gem is a big money-saver. 
Price for two nights: 70 euros

Do you have questions about the camino? If so be sure toast questions or  comment below. 

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    Author

    Elizabeth Rae Kovar is a Fitness Trainer, Author of Finding Om, Presenter, Yogi, Vegan & lover of the World. View her portfolio at www.elizabethkovar.comor health-based blog at mindbodysoul-food.com

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